Around the IZ

Once in Baghdad, we spent two days exploring the city within the boundaries of the IZ—now controlled by the Iraqi government. The International Zone (formerly known as the Green Zone) is a heavily guarded diplomatic/government area in central Baghdad. The IZ includes the main palaces of former President Saddam Hussein as well as the new U.S. embassy; the Monument to the Unknown Soldier; the former Baath party headquarters; the Al-Rasheed Hotel; the Convention Center; and a large park including the crossed sabers and Hussein’s famed parade grounds.

Iraq has a terrain of palm trees, incidental water and endless desert. But the citadel on the Tigris is certainly an oasis of sorts with its tree-lined streets and private gardens. Mosques and tall, skinny minarets dot the landscape of the city. Five times a day, residents are called to prayer by wailing music over a loudspeaker.

The IZ is protected by armed checkpoints, coils of razor wire, chain link fences and "T-Walls" (reinforced and blast-proof concrete slabs). Escorted by a couple of good-natured soldiers, we visited some of the pertinent “tourist” spots. When we stopped for photos, we often were met by smiling Iraqi soldiers who were all too willing to have their pictures taken.

The Iraqis are a lovely people with manners both primitive and polished, their language flowery and circuitous. Their actions are guided by traditions of conduct and morality that go back to the beginnings of civilization. With the birth of a new democracy, they have hope for a new life, a new beginning. But don’t expect them to throw off the old traditions and cloak themselves in Western ideals and culture. The Iraqi people have begun an intricate dance that will ultimately lead them to find their own balance between ancient traditions and the modern world.

Our arrival was preceded by the January provincial elections—the equivalent of U.S. state legislature elections. I read in the military paper “Stars and Stripes” that a total of 14,431 candidates, including 3,912 women, competed for 440 provincial council seats in 14 of Iraq's 18 provinces. The elections took place without major incident, a cause for celebration for the fledgling democracy.

The hovering storm of violence that plagued the country for so many years seems to have dissipated in Baghdad and most of Iraq, and Iraqis have started the reconstruction process. They are now about the business of building a new government, seeking national reconciliation between Sunnis, Shiites, Kurds and Christians and rebuilding their lives. There still are roadside IEDs (improvised explosive device) and car bombs, but for the most part security issues in Baghdad and other parts of Iraq have improved. U.S. forces are downsizing and turning many bases over to the Iraqis. Under the new security agreement, Iraqis now take a leading role in all operations.

“We’re trying to gain their understanding, get them believing in us,” said one U.S. soldier. “That we’re not here as the bad guys, but we are here to try to help them.”

Working with the Iraqi army and police has sometimes proved frustrating for U.S. soldiers. But I heard several soldiers say they’ve seen improvements within recent months. Many are excited to be witnesses to the birth of a new democracy. Added to that excitement is the uncertainty of the future here as troops begin to leave Iraq to fight the war on another front.